Rock Climbing in the Twin Cities
There are three climbing spots within an hour's drive of Minneapolis or St. Paul.
On the Minnesota-Wisconsin border, straddling the St. Croix River, are basalt cliffs. The climbing ranges from easy climbs for beginners and children, through a variety of routes that get as easy, or just about as difficult as you like are possible. Climbs range from 5.4 up to 5.13. Many places for anchors, and easy access to the top of cliff make it perfect for top-roping. Trad lead climbing is also possible on most of the routes here, solid protection. The unique geology of the St. Croix valley created many interesting rock formations and there's plenty of bouldering opportunities.
All climbers at Interstate State Park need a climbing permit, which can be obtained for free at the park office. A parking permit is also required to park in the Minnesota side lot, and a Wisconsin parking permit is required to park on the Wisconsin side.
Pros: The rock is mostly great, solid holds, solid places for anchors and protection, nice variety of climbs, and a great view from the top.
Cons: Mostly great means that there are still places with loose rocks, and size of the loose stuff is usually somewhere between "large" and "large boulder". Wildlife enjoy the rocks too - wasps love Taylors Falls as much as the climbers do. And the other park users, while mostly curious and harmless, can't be relied on to not get in harms' way, or play with your anchors.
General information on Interstate State Park - Minnesota Side
General information on Interstate State Park - Wisconsin Side
Climbing routes at Interstate State Park from Mountain Project - Minnesota side and Wisconsin side.
A limestone bluff high above the town of Red Wing on the Mississippi River has almost a good a view from the top as you get at Taylors Falls.
Setting top rope anchors at Red Wing is either impossible, or prohibited due to ecological damage done to the top of the cliff. So most routes are bolted for sport leading and have fixed anchors at the top of the routes for lowering and top-roping.
There are around 100 sport routes, ranging from 5.6 to 5.14. Trad lead climbing is possible here on a few cracks, but this is one place you'll really want to know what you are doing - the rock is nowhere near as solid as it is at Taylors Falls.
Use your own carabiners on the anchors if you plan to top rope here - it saves wear on the fixed gear at the top of the routes.
Pros: Minimal gear requirements as almost every established route has been bolted for sport leading. A rope, a set of quick draws and a buddy is all you need for a day of climbing. It's possible to climb here in the winter on a mild sunny day when the sun warms the rock on the south-facing side.
Cons: Not a place for beginner sport leaders. Even though there are several easy and moderate routes, the rock on then is often polished and they can be run out since they were bolted by six-foot-tall, 5.14-climbing first ascensionists. So routes in the 5.6-5.9 range often feel harder than their grades. Harder climbs, those above 5.10, feel more like their grades imply. Bringing a pole to stick-clip the first bolt (or even two bolts) isn't a bad idea. The rock isn't as solid as Taylor's Falls, and chunks of it do come off. You'll also need to wear a helmet for protection from regular climbing hazards, and also from rocks that local kids seem to enjoy throwing from the top of the bluff.
Climbing routes at Barn Bluff from Mountain Project
Willow River State Park, Hudson, WI
One of the most intimidating places to climb in the Midwest. Willow River's falls carved out an incredible overhanging gorge, which has several bolted sport routes on it. There's one 5.9, and everything else is at least a 5.11 through ungraded projects. The routes are all endurance climbs involving big moves to big holds. Willow River, if you are strong enough to climb here, offers thrilling, addicting climbing.
Climbing hours are restricted - climbing is prohibited on Saturday and after noon on Friday and Sunday.
Pros: Unique climbing location for the Midwest, and incredibly fun climbing if you are good enough. The rest of Willow River State Park is very pretty and fun to explore.
Cons: Blowing the crux on the only 'easy' climb will probably result in a broken ankle on a ledge right below it. (All the other climbs generally have safe falls once above the first bolt or two.) The river makes it almost impossible for climber and belayer to hear each other without yelling so pay attention to your climber.
Climbing routes at Willow River from Mountain Project.
Routes at Taylors Falls, Red Wing and Willow River are described in the Minnesota climber's bible, Rock Climbing in Minnesota and Wisconsin, by Mike Farris, available at outdoor stores and bookstores in the Twin Cities. And as the title suggests, there is plenty of beta for several other climbing crags around the region.
Next: Stores and Places to Buy Climbing Gear
